Zaitoon is a regional delight for your taste buds

By A.G. FOLEY, Special to the Times-Union

The discovery of an interesting new restaurant is always a welcome find, especially when you experience it with friends who appreciate food and wine as much as you do. Last weekend, we ventured to the new shopping center on Atlantic Boulevard, between Hodges and San Pablo, to a gem called Zaitoon Mediterranean Grill.

Though the expectations for restaurants that proclaim Mediterranean fare are as varied as the influences that define the cuisine, Zaitoon is one of the nicest I have seen. The name, pronounced zay-toon, is the Arabic word for olive. The menu here, though, is not just Arabic, but rather a seamless blend of the Arabic, Greek, Spanish, French and Italian flavors of the region.

I at once felt enveloped by the stylish atmosphere: warm, rich wood, vibrant tapestry fabrics and cozy dim lighting. We arrived around 7:45 on a Saturday night with no reservation, and found that the quoted 60-minute wait time passed very easily while seated at the bar. The bartenders were friendly and professional, and quick to set us up with cocktails and a peek at the menus.

The wine list is quite extensive and offers wines from many regions, including the United States, Spain, Italy and Greece, in a price range to suit most diners ($5 to $12 glass; $16 to $133 bottle).

At the bar, we were served a basket of warm, soft pita with a delectable olive tapenade and fragrant olive oil. Once we started to nibble this addicting amuse bouche, we realized how hungry we were. It was time for us to peruse the lengthy list of appetizers. This part of the menu is divided into Mediterranean Tapas Caliente (small plates served warm or hot) and Mediterranean Tapas Frios (those served cold).

From the Caliente side, the Chicken Boerk ($7) were flaky phyllo bundles filled with ground chicken, almonds, onion and tomatoes seasoned with fresh herbs and yellow curry. The Dolmades ($7) were truly some of the best stuffed grape leaves I have ever tasted, with a rich filling of spiced sirloin and rice.

From the Frios side of the menu, the Olivas de la Casa ($7) were house-marinated mixed olives with roasted peppers, garlic and fresh herbs. And, had I been dining alone, I could have happily made an entire meal of the fabulous Layered Hummus ($8), in which the traditional garbanzo bean mix was topped with garlic and lemon puree with fresh tomatoes, cucumber, red onion, kalamata olives, spinach and feta cheese and served with warm, soft pita.

Most of the dinner entrees include a choice of one of Zaitoon's specialty side salads ($4 to $5, also available in entree portions $9 to $10) - Tabbouleh; Fattoush, which is a mix of garden vegetables and toasted pita tossed in a lemon vinaigrette; Greek Salad; Roasted Beet & Curried Walnuts on a bed of spring greens with feta; and the savory Curried Chicken Salad with roasted chicken breast, red onion, walnuts and raisins in a yellow curry dressing. Each of these salads arrived at our table lightly dressed and supremely fresh.

The entree menu offers several traditional preparations of Kebabs ($14 to $19), such as chicken or beef marinated and basted with aromatic garlic and herbs; or a ground sirloin mixture flavored with onion, parsley and paprika called Kefta; or the chef's choice of fresh mixed seafood.

Also available are a smattering of dishes classically reflective of the countries along the Mediterranean shore, with most incorporating that essential ingredient, extra virgin olive oil.

We tried the Lamb Kebab ($17) with juicy pieces of lamb infused with lemon, garlic, mint and white wine grilled on a skewer and served with a side of delicately seasoned basmati rice. The marinade enhanced the flavor of the tender lamb that was mild and delicious without so much as a hint of an unpleasant gamy taste.

Our Paella ($24) is Zaitoon's twist on the traditional Spanish favorite with mussels, clams, calamari, chicken and local shrimp sauteed in white wine. And for the spin, the chef replaced the expected saffron rice with a rich chorizo and oven-dried tomato risotto, and tossed in some mixed bell peppers and peas to finish the dish.

The Braciola ($20) seemed to fall flat in the face of the other entrees we tasted. It was a roulade of thin sirloin cutlets rolled with a fairly mushy filling of pancetta, bread crumbs, portobello mushrooms and Parmigiano Reggiano baked in a rather nondescript roasted tomato sauce and served over a bed of angel hair pasta.

My favorite entree of the evening was the Curried Snapper ($23), an extremely fresh snapper fillet sauteed with a mild yellow curry, cilantro, mango-cucumber salad and basmati rice. The flavors in this dish were at once vibrant and balanced, light on the palate, yet very satisfying.

To finish our foray into the exciting flavors of the Med, we ventured into the dessert menu with much anticipation.

As with the rest of the menu, the dessert options were varied and interesting. To please those with a taste for the classics, Zaitoon prepares a terrific Vanilla Bean Creme Brulee ($6); for the chocoholic, there is the Chocolate Raspberry Cheesecake ($6); and for the more adventurous, the crisp and sweet pinwheels of Raspberry Baklava ($4.50) satiate the sweet tooth.

Like the balmy Mediterranean climate in which the olive tree prefers to grow, Zaitoon welcomes its guests with a warm atmosphere, fresh flavors and rich culture.

As for our visit, my guests were both pleased and impressed with our new find, and I am certainly looking forward to my next opportunity to savor the flavors of this beautiful cuisine.

Zaitoon Mediterranean Grill

13475 Atlantic Blvd.,

Jacksonville

(904) 221-7066

Type of cuisine: Upscale casual Mediterranean cuisine

Hours: 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday, 11 a.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday. Closed Monday.

Bar service: Full bar.

Children's menu? Yes.

Credit cards: All major - American Express, Visa, Mastercard, Discover.

Reservations? Yes.

Prices: Moderate to expensive.


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